KMA
pedestrian hack
Anyone know how to fix an expression pedal with dead spots at the top and bottom?
I’ve got an expression pedal (M-Audio EX-P) that doesn’t begin to transmit info until it’s about 0.5cm above the heel position. Similarly, it stops transmitting about 0.5cm from the top or toe-position.
The good news is that it DOES transmit the full 0 - 127 in values. The bad news is that this pedal has a very short throw to begin with, so any reduction in range results in the pedal being more difficult to use expressively.
I’ve opened it up and I see that the pedal mechanism looks fine and is still rotating the pot at the heel and toe positions, but not by as much as in the middle of the travel. So this has me thinking that the problem is either the pot itself, or in the design of the little arm/collar mechanism that translates the pedal position to the pot. I've attached a pic showing the underside of the pedal in the toe-forward position (i.e. full value or 127 being transmitted).
I knew this pedal wasn’t great when I bought it, but I bought it (and others like it) before I knew how to solve Roland/Yamaha expression compatibility issues. I’ve never had a problem with a single one of my FC7 pedals, although they're much heavier (a consideration when touring). I’m just tired of abandoning gear, so I thought I’d have a go at attempting a fix.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I’ve got an expression pedal (M-Audio EX-P) that doesn’t begin to transmit info until it’s about 0.5cm above the heel position. Similarly, it stops transmitting about 0.5cm from the top or toe-position.
The good news is that it DOES transmit the full 0 - 127 in values. The bad news is that this pedal has a very short throw to begin with, so any reduction in range results in the pedal being more difficult to use expressively.
I’ve opened it up and I see that the pedal mechanism looks fine and is still rotating the pot at the heel and toe positions, but not by as much as in the middle of the travel. So this has me thinking that the problem is either the pot itself, or in the design of the little arm/collar mechanism that translates the pedal position to the pot. I've attached a pic showing the underside of the pedal in the toe-forward position (i.e. full value or 127 being transmitted).
I knew this pedal wasn’t great when I bought it, but I bought it (and others like it) before I knew how to solve Roland/Yamaha expression compatibility issues. I’ve never had a problem with a single one of my FC7 pedals, although they're much heavier (a consideration when touring). I’m just tired of abandoning gear, so I thought I’d have a go at attempting a fix.
Anyone have any suggestions?
